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Ruvo di Puglia
Over the centuries, the city of Ruvo di Puglia developed around its centro storico (historical center), that even today retains its medieval appearance and charm. Four large, tree-lined boulevards separate the medieval town from the surrounding 19th century portion of the city, where impressive palaces, constructed by the most important families of the city, are visible on every street.
Our visit begins at the centro storico: in Piazza Matteotti (also called Piazza Castello) we can admire the remains of the Castle, the original structure of which dates back to the 11th century.
Following the narrow, winding streets of the medieval town we come to the renowned cathedral. Dating back to the XII century, the cathedral still retains its Romanesque-Gothic appearance despite having undergone a variety of renovations throughout the years.
The typically romanesque facade features three portals. The central portal is flanked by two thin columns supported by lions which themselves stand on telamons (human figures used as supports for columns). At the top of the columns sit two winged griffons. The arches over the doorway are richly decorated with the simbols of the evangelists (an angel representing St. Matthew, an ox representing St. Luke, a lion representing St. Mark, and an eagle representing St. John) and representations of the apostles and the Deesis. The facade is marked by a splendid rose window, above which an enigmatic seated figure gazes down over the piazza.
The inside of the Cathedral, in the shape of a cross, is subdivided into three naves by cruciform pilasters. A gallery runs along the central nave and is punctured by mullioned windows that provide light for the church.
In the transept we may still see the traces of a series of frescoes, in particular a Virgin with Child and Saint Sebastian, which is flanked by an Adoration of the Shepherds by Marco Pino da Siena, and a panel of the Madonna of Constantinople by the painter Z.T.
Underneath the Cathedral, visible through glass panels in the floor of the nave, lie the remains of a structure of ancient cults of worship, dating back to the Roman age, and of medieval tombs.
To the right of the Cathedral, detached from the main building, stands the bell tower from the 10th century.
Only a few metres from the cathedral, further remains of Roman structures are visible under the Church of the Purgatory (Chiesa del Purgatorio): the so-called Cave of S. Cleto, a cistern from the second century.
Today the edges of the centro storico are marked by the large, angled towers on Via Fornello and Via Rosario that date back to the Aragonese period, remains of the defensive system of the old city.
Just outside the centro storico, we find the 19th century Palazzo Jatta, which hosts on its ground floor the Museo Archeologico Nazionale Jatta. This remarkable collection, compiled during the 1800s thanks to the work of Giovanni Jatta, Sr. and his heirs, contains about 2000 pieces organized in four rooms. The first is the so-called "Room of the Terracottas." The second contains works with Red Figure pottery of Apulian production as well as Attic works imported from Ancient Greece. The third room, "The Hall of the Drinking Cups" features examples of ryhta, skyphos and kantaros. The fourth and final room contains the jewel of the collection: a splendid Attic krater from the V century B.C.E. depicting the myth of the giant Talos.
Molfetta
With origins that presumably date back to the Roman period, Molfetta was later the port of Ruvo di Puglia.
The renowned Duomo is dedicated to S. Corrado di Baviera, patron saint of the city, and is an excellent example of the mature Pugliese Romanesque style with axis cupolas. The apse is enclosed by a wall which also encircles the base of the bell towers that flank the structure. Of particular interest are the holy water font, a pluteo balustrade from the 12th century, and a ciborium from the 1400s.
The construction of the Cathedral of Molfetta dates back to 1744, when it served as the church of the Compagnia di Gesù (Order of Jesus), until 1775 when the order was disbanded.
Among the churches of the city, perhaps the most important is the Basilica Pontificia dei Martiri, which houses the statue of the Madonna dei Martiri (Madonna of the Martyrs), patron saint of the city and protector of sailors, in whose honor a procession takes place on the sea every September 8.
Castel del Monte
17 km from the city of Andria stands the splendid and imposing silhouette of Castel del Monte, now a Unesco World Heritage Site.
Built between 1229 and 1249 at the request of Federico II, Castel del Monte was probably used as a hunting lodge or as a place in which Federico could dedicate himself to his studies of astronomy and mathematics. We can, however, rule out its use as a fort from the absence of a moat and other defense systems.
The Castle has an octagonal footprint; the shape is repeated in the inner courtyard which provides access to sixteen adjoining rooms on two floors. The constant architectural presence of the number eight has inspired of dozens of researchers and philosophers throughout the centuries, who have supplied innumerable interpretations that range from Christian symbology to astrology, from mathematics to esoterism, without ever managing to uncover the secret of Federico II.
Trani
Trani is undoubtedly among the most famous cities of Puglia, thanks to its exquisite Cathedral. A true jewel of Romanesque architecture, overlooking the sea, the Cathedral offers a breathtaking experience to whomever has the fortune of seeing it.
The building, dedicated to S. Nicola Pellegrino, was built between 1099 and the end of the 12th century. Until a few years ago, the central portal of the facade was covered by large bronze doors, the work of Baresano da Trani. The external bell tower was built between 1230 and 1239.
The interior of the cathedral is subdivided in three naves by twin columns that support the matroneum.
At the end of the nave we descend to the Church of S. Maria, a pre-existing basilica under the current Cathedral, from which we can enter the hypogeum of S. Leucio (fifth to seventh century C.E.). Descending a few steps behind the altar of S. Maria, we arrive at the crypt of S. Nicola, where the relics of the saint are kept.
A short distance from the cathedral, still overlooking the sea, we find the Castello Svevo (Swabian Castle), one of the most important examples of the defensive architecture of Federico II. Built at the request of the emperor in the 13th century, the castle underwent a series of additions in the 1500s. Until 1975 the castle housed a prison. In 1998 it was opened to the public.
Continuing through the port, and passing through a portico, we arrive at the Chiesa di Ognissanti (All Saints' Church), constructed by the Order of the Knights Templar in the 12th century.
Heading into the centro storico, we must not miss a visit to the Palazzo Caccetta (15th century), where elements of the gothic style are fused with the Pugliese Romanesque tradition.
In the Jewish ghetto of the city stands the old synagogue, built in the 12th century, and later turned into the church of S. Maria di Scolanova.
Bisceglie
Founded by the Normans in the XI century, the centro storico of Bisceglie still retains its medieval character despite a number of additions during the Aragonese period.
Walking through the centro storico, we can see traces of the Norman period, such as the imposing Torre Maestra, part of the defensive systems of the Norman castle, probably constructed during the Swabian period with later remodelling during the Angevin period. The Church of S. Giovanni, the Palatine chapel of the castle, was built in the 12th century.
The Church of S. Adeodeno, built in 1074 but remodeled during the Baroque period, houses an exquisite baptismal font from the 11th century.
Another beautiful example of the Pugliese Romanesque architecture is the Church of S. Margherita (1197), in which we can see the funerary monuments of the members of the Falcone Family, founders of the church.
The principal structure of the city of the Cathedral, built in 1073 and enlarged in 1167; at the end of the 1700s it, too, underwent a transformation and acquired a Baroque appearance. Further work in the 1970s restored the cathedral to its original Romanesque form, leaving only a few reminders of its Baroque incarnation, such as the Neapolitan marble altar and the wooden choir.
Still maintaining the glory of the Remaissance and Baroque periods in Puglia is the so-called Via dei Palazzi (Street of the Palaces), on which we fine Palazzo Berarducci (late 17th century), Palazzo Tupputi (16th century), and Palazzo Frisari.
We must not miss a visit to the surrounding countryside, where we may see no fewer than four Dolmens that date back to the Middle Bronze Age (16th to 14th centuries B.C.E.), including the famous "Dolmen della Chianca."
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